Well-bred hardy people talk about smart things without being afraid of the ghetto they live in

Park your horse at Roberta’s, an unmarked warehouse on a creepy alley in Bushwick, any night of the week and you will enjoy the Urban Pioneer Sloane Inn.

Tonight there was the usual centerpiece of Sloanes surrounded by their adoring acolytes. The restaurant is long and dimly lit by vintage chandeliers and colorful Christmas lights. The seating, ceilings, walls, bar and windows are all framed by thick salvaged barn wood. Soccer plays on the TV and 80s and 90s party music, from Beastie Boys to Warren G, blasts on the speakers to remind the Sloanes of their glory days. Brown beer is served in jam jars just like those the original pioneers drank from.

In front of me sit three classic Sloanes. The guy is 50 and his wife is a little younger. He’s wearing those round glasses that some French writer wore. His wife looks like Lisa Murkowski-turned urban pioneer Sloane, a therapist maybe, or an art book publisher (Phaedon?). I can’t see the other gal because she’s got her head to the back of me but when she turns around briefly I see heavy black eye makeup. They’re having a great time, and look much more relaxed than the 25-year-old couple behind them. The girl is wearing a blue and white striped French sailor top and her date is wearing a Ralph Lauren white wool Crosby Stills Nash and Young album cover sweater, exaggerated nerd glasses and a vintage American baseball hat. The effect of his attire is expensive, and he might be a trust fund child from the Upper East Side who started a magazine or Website or production company with his father’s money. They have come to gaze at the hardy Sloanes they wish they could be.

Across the room are a couple of guys wearing lumberjack flannel shirts. They’re in their 40s, and laughing heartily. One of them probably lives in the neighborhood, and the other is his actor friend coming to have a long evening of drinking and joking.  Meanwhile, several parties of four enter hurriedly – Irish tourists, and a young couple and their frazzled out-of-towner parents.

The Urban Pioneer Sloane Inn has a wait of at least 30 minutes for a table of four.